Knitted fabric and method of producing the same



NOV.26,1940J H E HAEHNEL 2223252 KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1938 8 Sheets-Sheet l FlE- E FLE- l BY ATTOR EX 26, 1940- H. E. HAEHNEL 2,223,252

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6; 19 38 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. 3 IE El HerbefiEnh/zfiaefinel,

PM I /4 gfi 3 ATTORNEY Nov. 26, 1940.

H. E. HAEHNEL 2,223,252 I KNITTED FAIBRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME I 7 Filed Jan. 6, 1938 8 Sheets-Sheet 3 Fl E- 5.

1 1 EilU w Y 97 V 'F Fl E J E.

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. /flll ll K 1' JNVENTORI flerbert Erigaehnd, BY 5 Z ATTORNEW' 1940- H. E. HAEHNEVL ,252

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1938 8 Sheets-Shee t 4 Fl Esl5 Fl. 5--.LQ-

- INVEN TOR: Herbal? Erich Haze/Mel,

Nov. 26, 1940. H. E. HAEHNEL KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1938 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR .4 TTORNEY.

NOV. 26, 1940. HAEHNEL I 2,223,252

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1938 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 65.55; 96 FLE- J E 4 ,2 5

a: y 5 1 01 #1112 was 5-- l g u n 0 a n a 0 II J I a I t I z 2 aez 52 A [1 m Z9 INVENTOR: 132 4 fierbefl Ericlwfiaehml,

A TTORNEY.

NOV. 26, 1940. WH. E. HAEHNEL- 2223,252,

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Jan. a, 1938 4 8 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR: Herbert Erick Hae/mel,

Nov. 26, 1940. H. E. HAEHNEL 2,223,252

' KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME I Filed Jan. 6, 1938 i 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 d 5--57. a J 6 dd 1 1 v 197 Fl fi jd' 59 M a a 1 5 d M BY (W I Y I ATTOR EY.

and heel tabs on one machine, known as a legger, 15

Patented Nov. 26, 1940 KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD or PRO- DUCING THE SAME Herbert Erich Haehnel, West Reading, Pa., asgnor to Textile Machine Works, Wyomissing,

Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application January 6, 1938, Serial No. 183,656

10 Claims.

My invention relates to novel knitted fabrics, and to a method of, and means for, producing them, particularly as related to full fashioned stockings each having leg and foot portions continuously knitted on a unit machine, and a heel element subsequently added.

However, my improved method is not claimed herein; but is claimed as well as described in a divisional application Serial No. 355,888, ,filed September 9, 1940, for Method of and apparatus for narrowing knitted fabric.

a In the production of full fashioned stocking blanks, it has been usual to knit the welts, legs and to complete theblanks by transferring them to a machine known as a footer, and knitting and fashioning the foot portions thereon. This procedure causes the well known differences of shade or tone forming a line between areas of the instep region knitted on the legger and the footer machines, respectively, caused by unavoidable discrepancies in the spacing of the needles of the two machines, by the fact that the areas are knitted of yarn from different cones, and by other factors.

Various suggestions have been made toward the elimination of the above-mentioned defect, probably the first of which was to knit an entire stocking blank, including the welt, the leg, the heel tabs and the foot on one machine, known as a unit machine. In one such machine, a course of loops across the instep area is lifted by a point comb ofi the needles, and the comb allowed to recede from the plane of the needles during the knitting of the heel tabs, after which the comb is brought back to the needle plane and the loops redeposited on the needles for completing the knitting of the foot portion. In another machine,.

instead of lifting the instep loops oif the needles,

the needle bar is so split and a portion thereof allowed to recede with the instep course loops, and brought back again, after the completion of the heel tabs, as to accomplish substantially the same result.

It was later suggested to knit all of a stocking,

except the heel tabs, 'on one machine, and to subsequently add these tabs, or a unit heel pocket element, whereby the objectionable line, or differences of shade, between areas in the instep region was avoided.

' However, with this suggestion also, there arose still further problems as to whether, and how, to knit the heel pocket elements, as separate entities to be topped or seamed in position in the main blank, or stocking, or to knit the heel pocket elements directly to the main blank.

Attempts along the first line, resulted, accord ing to one suggestion, in the production of separate half heel pocket elements to be topped and 5 seamed in place. This suggestion requires, not only the handling, but also the maintenance of separate stocks, of the many small heel elements.

Another prior suggestion, avoiding'objections to the half heel pocket element suggestion above mentioned, is to produce an entire heel pocket element in one piece, and to assemble it in position by a combination of topping and seaming operations.

In the matter of knitting the heel elements in position from loops of the mainblank, it has heretofore been suggested to top the main blank onto needles and implements of .a *heeler machine whereby, as the heel tabs are knitted on standard needles, the loops of the first course portions in the sole area, at opposite sides of the blank, are transferred from needle-like'loop holding implements one at a time to insideselvage edge loops of the heel tabs as the latter are produced. Such method has the great advantage of reducing the operation of producing the stocking to somewhat its former simple commercial status by the two machine legger and footer mechanism. It requires no separate stocks of heel elements, but only of the yarn thereof as it is knitted in place, and, at the same time, eliminates the instep line above set forth.

It is among the objects of the invention hereof to produce a full fashioned stocking without differences in shade between areas of the instep region and, in general, to avoid all of the objections to former methods and machines intended to produce a similar stocking.

In particular it is an object hereof to improve the last above-mentioned method, wherein loops of the sole area are transferred, by eliminating the necessity for such transfer, and thereby producing an improved stocking of structurally different characteristics from any prior stocking of which I am' aware. It isan object to provide improved means for practicing the method, and producing the stocking, of the invention, whereby the product of the above-mentioned unit machine may be completed substantially as satisfactorily as, if not better than, the long practiced standard two-machine legger and footer method.

It is another object to utilize the novel prin ciples and features of this invention in the production of other fabrics similar to full fashioned stockings or portions thereof wherever they may be applied.

With these and other objects in view, which will become apparent from the following detailed Fig. 2 is a view of a one-piece combined leg and foot blank, minus the heel pocket elements, from which the stocking of Fig. l is formed, a section of the leg area being omitted;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to the lower portion of Fig. 2 of a corresponding lower portion of a blank from which a modified form of the invention is produced;

Fig. 4 is a view, similar to Fig. 3 of another modified form of blank produced by the invention;

Fig. 5 is a view of the blank portion of Fig. 4, after the heel elements have been knitted to position therein;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to the bottom portion of Fig. 1, of the stocking produced from-the blanks of Figs. 4 and 5;

Fig. 7 is a magnified loop diagram of an area A shown in dot and dash lines in Fig. 4, but with a severing course or area severed in Fig. 7, and not severed in Fig. 4;

Fig. 8 is a schematic diagrammatic layout of yarns as fed in the region of the area B shown in dot and. dash lines of Fig. 4;

Figs. 9 to 13, inclusive, are sequence diagrams similar to the lower portion of Fig. 2, but inverted from the position thereof corresponding" to the service position of the stocking on the leg of a wearer to the position of the blank as the fabric comes from the machine, showing successive steps in the production of a finished blank;

Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 2 of the blank thereof, plus the heel'pocket elements added dur-- ing the steps of Figs. 9 to 13, inclusive;

Fig. 15 is a perspective rear view of the stock ing of Fig. 1, as extended or rounded out in service on the leg of a wearer, but having its selvage edges slightly spaced apart prior to seaming;

Figs. 16, 17 and 18 are perspective views of portions of the blank of Fig. 2, and of the machine for producing it, also at successive stages of production, corresponding to Figs. 10, 12 and 13, respectively;

Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic front elevation of portions of a full fashioned knitting machine modified in accordance with the invention, showing the parts positioned as at one stage of operation;

Fig. 20 is a view similar to a portion of Fig. 19, the parts shown being positioned as at another stage of operation;

Fig. 21 is a view similar to Fig. 19, with the parts at still further positions different from the position of the parts of Figs. 19 and 20; Y

Fig. 22 is a front to back sectional view, taken substantially along the line 22-22 of Fig. 19 of the machine thereof, but showing further elements;

Fig. 23 is a view, similar to the bottom portion of Fig. 15, but with the back seam effected, of

another modified form of stocking of the invention;

Fig. 24 is a view of the completed blank portion from which the structure of Fig. 23 is produced; 5

Fig. 25 is a view similar to Fig. 23 of another modified form of the invention;

Fig. 26 is a. view similar to Fig. 24, of the com pleted blank portion for producing the structure of Fig. 25;

Fig. 27 is a view similar to Fig. 19 of another knitting machine modified in accordance with a further form of the invention; andv Fig. 28 is a view similar to Fig. 22 of the machine of. Fig. 27.

In the drawings and description, only those parts necessary to a complete understanding of means constructed in accordance with the invention have been set forth; further information as to the construction and operation of other elements not herein specifically pointed out, but which are usual and well known, being available in the pamphlet entitled Full fashioned knitting machines, copyright 1920, and in the Reading full fashioned knitting machine catalogues, copyright 1929 and 1935, published by the Textile Machine Works, Reading, Pennsylvania, and in a pamphlet entitled .Knitting machine lectures, published in 1935 by the Wyomissing Polytechnic Institute, Wyomissing, Pennsylvania.

As shown in Fig. 1, a full fashioned stocking embodying the invention is constructed as usual, except as to parts hereinafter to be more particularly pointed out, and comprises a welt W, a narrowed upper knee area K, an intermediate leg section N, a lower leg portion L having a narrowed portion, upper reinforced heel areas U, a heel element H, an instep area 1, reinforced sole portions S, and a reinforced toe portion T.

The stocking, as thus constituted, but before the heel pocket element H is inserted, is produced from the blank of Fig. 2 which is not itself part of the present invention, or produced by a method or means of the invention, except in combination with the corresponding new elements herein set forth. It comprises, in one continuously knitted fabric, the welt W, the knee area K, the leg area N, the lower leg portion L, the instep portion I, the sole portion S, and the toe portion'T having a ravel area R therein, but omits the heel pocket 50 element H of Fig. 1.

To prepare the blank of Fig. 2 for the reception of the heel pocket element H of Fig. 1, it is provided, intermediate the reinforced upper heel areas U and the sole portions S, at each side of thewalewise center of the blank, with parallel successive course portions l1 and IS, in walewise register with each other, having a severing area l9, as of one row of loops therebetween. The course portions I! thus constitute the last or lowermost course portions in the heel areas U, and the course portions l8 constitute the first or uppermost course portions in the sole areas S, in the normal service position of the finished stocking on the leg of a wearer. As shown in Fig. 9, the lower portion of the blank of Fig. 2 is inverted from its position of Fig. 2, viewed as it at the left walewise side of the blank, about a walewise line XL adjacent to the position of the inner end of the left hand or corresponding course portions I1 and I8, as viewed in Fig. 9, and, at the right walewise side of the blank, about a walewise line XR. adjacent to the position of the inner end of the right hand course portions I! and I8, the blank also being folded about a coursewise line Y between the course portions I1 and I8, thus placing the latter in substantial alignment with each other for topping onto adjacent needles, and rendering the course portions I8 inner course portions relative to the outer course portions IT. The blank, as shown in Fig. 10, is

in its position of topping onto the needles of a heeler machine of the invention, hereinafter set forth.

Fig. 11 indicates the appearance of the blank when, upon continuing the knitting thereof to From each course portion 23 to a shorter course portion 24, which may or may not be a loose course for purposes hereinafter described, as seen in Fig. 12, shaping or narrowing is intermittently effected along the walewise center lines XL, and KR simultaneously in opposite coursewise directions forming narrowing marks 21 (Fig. 1) along substantially parallel lines 29' (Fig. 12). This operation tapers the areas HT along sloping edges 29 from the course portion 23 to the course portion 24, from the latter of which, a ravel area 32 (Fig. 13) is formed. The blank is then complete, as shown in Fig. 14 after which, thehalf portions of each ravel area 32 are folded into flat face engagement with each other about a median coursewise line of the blank, as viewed in Fig. 14, and the corresponding half portions of the short course 24 looped to each other along lines 34, as shown in Figs. 1 and 15, during which looping operation the ravel course portion 32 is removed. As shown in Fig. 15, selvageedges 31 which are later seamed together to form a usual back seam 38 (Fig. 1), are spaced a slight distance apart to better illustrate the construction of the stocking particularly in and about the pocket element H. I 1

Referring to Figs. 16 to 22, inclusive (first see Figs. 19 to 22, inclusive), portions of a full fashioned knitting machine, for accomplishing the previously recited results, include center frames 42, a front beam 43, a back beam 44, a front bed 41, a center bed 48, and loop forming mechanism E including needles 49, a needle bar 52, a needle bar clamp 53, sinkers 54, dividers 57 and knockover bits 58. Two needle bar Ectioris of a multisection machine are indicated in Figs. 19 and 21.

Yarn laying means F, includes brackets, such as a bracket 62 secured to the center bed 48, for supporting yarn carrier bars I to I, inclusive.

The machine, in this instance, is a modified footer machine,or in other words, the invention may be considered as an attachment to a footer machine whereby, by slight alterations, it may be utilized either as a footer or as a heeler machine. In its capacity as a footer it may require the several yarn carrier rods illustrated, and, in its capacity as a heeler machine, it may require a smaller number, such as the three rods 5; 8 and 1. A machine constructed to operate only as a heeler' machine therefore does not ordinarily require as many yarn carriers as are illustrated, or other parts of a heeler, and may consequently be initially constructed at a saving in size, weight and cost.

The yam carrier bar I carries two yarn guide fingers DI and D2 for each needle bar section disposed, and adapted to operate, at opposite sides of the vertical center-line of the corresponding section in the production of the heel tab areas HT at opposite sides of the walewise center line of the blank.

The carrier bar I is reciprocated longitudinally in a usual manner, by the coulier motion mechanism of the machine, between adjustable contact screws 63 and 64 on left and right hand end stops 6'! and 68, respectively. The stops 6'! and 88 are carried by yarncarrier end stop nuts 12 and I3, respectively, on spindles I4 Joumaled in bearings I1, and having ratchet wheels I8 by which the spindles are operated to vary the distances of reciprocation of the yarn carrier bar I. Narrowing rods 82 and 83 are longitudinally slidably journaled in bearing brackets, such as the bracket 84 (Fig. 22).

The rod 82 carries, at the left end of each needle bar section, a narrowing comb CLI, and the rod 83 carries, at the right of each comb CLI, also at the left of the center of each needle bar section, a narrowing comb CRI. The rod 82 also carries, at the right of the center of each needle bar section, a narrowing comb GL2, and the rod 83 carries at the right of each comb CL2 at the right end of each. needle bar section, a narrowing comb CR2. The rod 82 is biased toward the left, as viewed in Figs. 19, 20 and 21, by a spring 81 connected between an arm 88 on the rod, and an arm 89 on the inner bearing 11 of the left end spindle I4. The rod 83 is biased toward the right, by a spring 92 connected between an arm 93 on the rod, and an arm 94 on the inner bearing I1 of the right end spindle 14. K

The rod 82 carries an adjustable contact screw 91 at its left end for engagement with the right side of a longitudinally movable elongated cam or wedge-like element 98, and the rod 83 carries an adjustable contact screw .99 l'at its left end for engagement with the left side of ,the wedge 98. The latter has portions I02 and I03 constituting high and low cam portions, -respectively, such that when the wedge is reciprocated longitudinally from its position of Fig. 19 to its position of Fig. 22, the rods' 82 and 83 are moved longitudinally relative to each other by a distance equal to a two needle spacing along the needle banks of the respective needle bar sections;

The wedge 98 is vertically reciprocably journaled in a bearing bracket I04 secured, as by screws I01, to the center bed 48, and has a lower end portion I08 that is pivotally connected, by a pin I09, to a link H2. The latter is pivotally con- .nected, by a pin II4, to a lever arm I" that is I23 fixed to a usual cam shaft I24. The follower H9 is biased toward the cams by a spring I21 connected between a hook end I28 of the lever arm III and a bracket I29 clamped to the back beam 44. The cam I 22 is circular so that, when the follower H9 is on this cam, as shown in Figs. 19- and 21, the machine is in ordinary knitting condition, and no narrowing movement is imparted to the narrowing points I32 of the combs CLI, CRI, CL2 and CR2. When the cam shaft I24 is shogged to the right, the follower II9 rides on the contoured narrowing cam I28 such that distance.

the wedge 98 is reciprocated' vertically to reciprocate the narrowing rods simultaneously in oppo-' site directions.

Dipping movement of the narrowing points is effected in a usual manner, by a usual mechanism including a front narrowing shaft I331 on which the brackets" 84 are mounted, and a curved lever arm I34 pivotally mounted by" a back narrowing shaft I31 that is mounted in brackets, such as the bracket I38 on the machine frame.

As shown in Fig. 16, in which the position of the blank corresponds to its position of Fig. 10, the course portions I1 and I8 are mounted on the needles 49, and the blank maintained taut by welt hooks I42 on a welt bar I43 that is connected, by a strap I44, to a usual take off roller I" on a shaft I48.

In Fig. 17, the parts are positioned correspond- 4 ing to the stage of operation at which the blank is completed to its form of Fig. 12, after which five or six courses to one narrowed course, afterwhich, as the formation of the heel tabs HT approaches the ends of the latter, the narrowings are effected more frequently.

As shown in Fig. 19, the parts are in plain knitting position, and the end. stops 61 and 68 positioned as shown. Each of the combs CLI and CRI merely operates back and forth a two needle distance, and this distance is in the same location at each operation. The combs CL2 and CR2 .operate likewise, never changing the general location along the needle bank. butalways working back and forth over the same two needle span. The combs may beoperated back and forth a one needle distance, and the number of narrowings increased, 'or the arrangement of narrowing marks changed, as hereinafter set forth, to produce the heel tab areas to the desired size and shape.

After each narrowing, the first of which is indicated as being effected in Fig. 20, by the position of the wedge 98 causing the combs of each pair to move toward each other, the end stops 6'! and 68 are each moved inwardly a two needle distance,-indicated by the small vertical lines a, b and above the stops. Plain courses are then formed to the length determined by the end stops, until the next narrowing, when the above procedure is repeated, and the end stops are again moved toward each other a further two needle Thus, although, the narrowing combs never advance inwardly beyond the two needle span over which they work, the end stops advance by successive additional two needle distances upon successive narrowings. Fig. 21 illustrates the finish of the first narrowing in which the wedge 98 has dropped to lower position, the follower II9 is on the circular cam I22, and the end stops have advanced inwardly two needles.

Yarn guide fingers, such as the finger P associated with the yarn guide finger DI of Fig. 22, and mounted on the carrier bar I, are provided one for similar association with each of the yarn guide fingers DI and D2. As shown, the fingers P lay the body yarn of the fabric, and the fingers DI and D2 are splicing carriers, thereby being actuated and controlled to travel simultaneously with, 'and through strokes of the same length as, the carriers P. Where plating is. desired, the

' the individual blank portions therebelow.

- stead spread to a lower area in the stockings aaaaaue constituting part of this invention.

In the modified form of blank portion shown in Fig. 3, in which corresponding parts are designated by corresponding referencecharacters having the subscript a, the only difference in construction over that of the first form resides in the provision of widened reinforced portions J at each side of the blank. The blank is otherwise folded and arranged relative to the heeler machine needles, as in Figs. and 16, and completed in the manner of completing the blank of the first described form, the result in the finished stocking providing a heel pocket element of slightly modified shape and greater fullness.

In the modified form of blank portion shown in Fig. 4, in which parts corresponding to parts previously described are designated by corresponding reference characters having the subscript b, the construction is similar to that of Fig. 3, except that areas I49 of widened portions Jb' are of single or reduced yarn thickness to which no heel pocket fabric is knitted, and which are severed from the blankby cutting along lines defined by the adjacent reinforced areas prior to forming a back seam 38b, Fig. 6, these areas being provided merely to facilitate the production of Thus, the course portions I'Ib, to which heel tab fabric is knitted, are shorter than the course portions 'I8b so that, when these course portions are aligned, as in Fig. 10, and centered relative to the narrowing combs, fashion marks 21?) are in the center of the heel pocket elements HTb (Fig. 5), but, however, are lower on the stocking than the corresponding marks 21 of Figs. 1, 14 and 15. This feature is further desirable inasmuch as any contributing strain occasioned by the narrowings 40 in the fabric is not directed to the turningpoint.

of the heel where the sole portion Sb, the upper heel portion Ub and the instep Ib meet and which is considered to be one of the weaker points in stockings as heretofore constructed, but is in- 45 where these additional strains will be more readily absorbed without damaging the fabric. Thus, another variety or selection of heel size and shape is provided. As shown in Fig. 7, the severing course I9b of Fig. .4 has been severed, thus providing a slit 22b between the course portions Ill) and I8b for folding the blank, as above set forth. This figure also better illustrates the thickness and position of one of the areas I49 relative to the adjacent areas, and the particular configurations and loop relations of the yarns.

Fig. 8 further exemplifies how a body yarn I 50 is laid through the areas I49, the areas Ub, the reinforced sole areas, and the lower leg area appreaching the instep I, in the relation of the body yarn to a reinforcing yarn I52 of the areas Ub and Sb in the widened portions Jb. The course portions Nb and I8b, and the severing area I 917, at one side of the fabric, are offset walewise one course from the corresponding features, respectively, at the other side of the fabric, as indicated in 8.

In the form of the invention shown in Figs. 23 and 24, in which parts corresponding to parts previously described, are designated by corresponding reference characters having the subscript 0, the construction is similar to the first described forms thereof, except that additional narrowing is effected which produces narrowing Figs. and 26, and in the modified form of machine, shown in Figs. 27 and 28 for producing portions of this fabric, parts corresponding to parts previously described, are designated by corresponding reference characters having the subscript d. In both the fabric and the machine, the construction is similar to the above-described forms thereof except-that the additional narrowing represented by ,marks I53d, along'lines parallel to the lines of the marks 2111 at each side of the walewise center line of each heel tab area HTd, is provided by the use of covering knives I54 to cover the loops inwardly thereof, after the completion of the narrowing which produces the marks 21c.

Each covering knife I54 is carried at the free end of a lever I51 having its other end fixed to a covering shaft I58 journaled on the narrowing rod brackets 84. A spring I59, connected between the inner end of a lever I62 on the shaft I58 and a pin I63 associated with the front narrowing shaft I33d, operates to bias the lever I62 clockwise about the axis of the pin I58, as viewed in Fig. 28. An upright rod I64 extends loosely througha swivel member I61 at the outer end of the lever I62, The rod is pivotally connected at its lower end, by a pin I-68, to one end of a lever I69. The latter is pivoted at its other end, by a pin I12, to a portion of the machine frame, and carries intermediate its ends, on a pin I13, a follower I14 for cooperation with circular and contoured cams I15 and I16, respectively, on the cam shaft I24d.

A lever I11, having on one of its arms a fork I18 embracing the follower I14, is pivoted about the axis of a vertical pin I19 in a bracket I82 on the machine frame, and has a fork I83 on its other arm I84 embracing the upper arm of a lever I81 that is pivoted by a horizontal pin I88 in the bracket I82. A lower arm I89 has a forked end portion I92 embracing a horizontal rod I93 between collars I94 on the latter. The rod I93 is supported along the front beam 43d, and leads to a usual pattern chain mechanism for longitudinal reciprocation thereby.

During plain knitting, and also during the formation of the narrowings represented by the marks 21d, the follower I14 rides on the circular cam I15, the latter being of such thickness that the follower remains thereon during shogging of the cam shaft from its plain knitting position to its position of effecting the narrowings 2111- After the narrowings 21d are effected in any one course, the narrowings I53d are effected in that course by shifting of the rod I93 from the pattern mechanism, this shifting acting through the collars I94, the lever I81, the fork I83, the lever I11 and the fork I18, to move the follower I14 off the circular cam I15 and onto the contoured cam- I16,

The rod I68 carries collars I91 and I98, respectively, fixed thereto above and below the member I61 such that, when the follower I14 is on a high point of the cam I16, or on the circular cam I15, the lower collar I98 holds the knife I54 in an inactive position. When the follower I14 is on a low point of the cam I16, the collar I98 is removed from beneath the member I81 so that the knife I54 is free to move downwardly about the axis of the shaft I58 to position for blocking out certain of the fashioning points.

Of course, the improvements specifically shown and described by which I obtain the above re sults, can be changed and modified in various ways without departing from the invention herein disclosed and hereinafter claimed.

I claim:

1. The method of forming a fabric blank, which comprises knitting a portion of the blank and forming two sets of parallel course portions, one on one side of the blank and one on the other, separable transversely to the plane of the blank and extending each from one edge of the blank inwardly to a position short of an opposite edge of the blank, manipulating the blank including the folding thereof at one walewise side of each set of said course portions about a walewise line adjacent to said position and folding the blank about a coursewise line between said course portions to place the latter insubstantial alignment with each other on adjacent needles, knitting further from each, to form two spaced areas united one to each set of said course portions, and tapering both edges of each of said areas.

2. The method of forming a full fashioned stocking blank, which comprises knitting the entire blank except the heel pocket elements and forming walewise opposite parallel course portions at opposite sides of the coursewise blank center in the heel region separable transversely to the plane of the blank and the parallel course portions at each of said sides each extending from the corresponding edge of the blank inwardly to a position short of said center, manipulating the blank including the folding thereof at one walewise side of said course portions about walewise lines adjacent to said positions, respectively, and folding the blank about a coursewise line between said course portions to place such course portions at each side of the blank in substantial alignment with each other on adjacent needles, knitting further from each, to form a single area united to both, of said course portions at each side of the blank, and tapering both edges of each of said areas.

3. The method of forming a full fashioned stocking blank, which comprises knitting the entire blank except the heel pocket elements and forming walewise opposite parallel course p'ortions at opposite sides of the coursewise blank center in the heel region separable transversely to the plane of the blank and the parallel course portions at each of said sides each extending from the corresponding edge of the blank inwardly to a position short of said center, manipulating the blank including the folding thereof at one walewise side of said course portions about walewise lines adjacent to said positions, respectively, and folding the blank about a coursewise line between said course portions to place such course portions at each side of the blank in substantial alignment with each other on adjacent needles, knitting further from each, to form a single area united to both, of said course portions at each side of the blank, and forming a plurality of coursewise offset narrowings in each of said areas.

4. The method of forming a full fashioned stocking blank, which comprises knitting the entire blank except the heel pocket elements and forming walewise opposite parallel course portions at opposite sides of the coursewise blank center in the heel region separable transversely to the plane of the blank and the parallel course portions at each of said sides each extending from the corresponding edge of the blank inwardly to a position short of said center, manipulating the blank including the folding thereof at one walewise side of said course portions about walewise lines adjacent to said positions, respectively, and folding the blank about a coursewise line between said course portions to place such course portions at each side of the blank in substantial alignment with each other on adjacent needles, knitting further from each, to form a single area united to both, of said course portions at each side of the blank, and narrowing along the walewise center of each of said areas.

5. The method of forming a full fashioned stocking blank, which comprises knitting the entire blank except the heel pocket elements and forming walewise opposite parallel course portions at opposite sides of the coursewise blank center in the heel region separable transversely to the plane of the blank and the parallel course portions at each of said sides each extending from the corresponding edge of the blank inwardly to a position short of said center, manipulating the blank including the folding thereof at one walewise side of said course portions about walewise lines adjacent to said positions, respectively, and folding the blank about a coursewise line between said course portions to place such course portions at each side of the blank in substantial alignment with each other on adjacent needles, knitting further from each, to form a single area united to both, of said course portions at each side of the blank, and narrowing at opposite sides of the walewise center of each of said areas.

6. A full fashioned stocking comprising an entire leg and foot portion except the heel pocket having in the heel pocket region at each side successive course portions diverging from a point intermediate the front and back of the stocking at the corresponding side to points spaced along the back seam, and a heel pocket structure filling the area bounded by the diverging lines at opposite sides of the stocking including a fashioned area knitted from the lower of the diverging lines at each side of the stocking.

7. A full fashioned stocking comprising an entire leg and foot portion except the heel pocket having in the heel pocket region at each'side sucaaeaasa cessive course portions diverging from a point intermediate the front and back of the stocking at the corresponding side to points spaced along the back seam, and a heel pocket structure filling the area bounded by the diverging lines at opposite sides of the stocking including a single area at each side of the stocking knitted to both of the diverging lines at the corresponding side and having tapered edges.

8. A full fashioned stocking comprising an entire leg and foot portion except the heel pocket having in the heel pocket region at each side successive course portions diverging from a point intermediate the front and back of the stocking at the corresponding side to points spaced along the back seam, and a heel pocket structure filling the area bounded by the-diverging lines at opposite sides of the stocking including a' single heel pocket element at each side of the stocking knitted to both of the diverging lines at the corresponding side and having coursewise ofiset narrowings.

9. A full fashioned stocking comprising an entire leg and foot portion except the heel pocket having in the heel pocket region at each side suc cessive course portions diverging from a point intermediate the front and back of the stocking at the corresponding side to points spaced along the back seam, and a heel pocket structure filling the area bounded by the diverging lines at opposite sides of the stocking including a single heel pocket element at each side of the stocking knitted to both or the diverging lines at the corresponding side and narrowed such as to produce narrowing marks along its walewise center.

10. A full fashioned stocking comprising an entire leg and foot portion except the heel pocket having in the heel pocket region at each side successive course portions diverging from a point intermediate the front and back of the stocking at the corresponding side to points spaced along the back seam, a 'heel pocket structure filling the area bounded by the diverging lines at opposite sides of the stocking including a single heel pocket element at each side of the stocking knitted to both of the diverging lines at the corresponding side and narrowed at opposite sides of its walewise center.

HERBERT ERICH HAEHNEL. 

